Friday, September 21, 2007

And finally, the mighty El Cap!


Tom and I at Yosemite Valley


The Rock!


My Aunt Betty, Uncle Jerry and Tom at SB railway station


Tom and I with the Chevvy 57 or "hot rod" as it's known!


Dancing the night away Fjian-style at Bobo's Farm


With Epi on a visit to Lovoni village and the rainforest


Our Caqalai paradise


No peace even for a pee on Caqalai


Homeward bound

Well I thought I better give you one last eposide of our adventures before I get home and bore you all with the thousands and thousands of photos we have taken during our seven month Pacific trip.
Yep, that's right we're back this Sunday.
The last six weeks have been awesome! After the chilly New Zealand weather we flew to Fiji where we enjoyed tropical heat and haggling. Those Indo-Fijians are the best salesmen I have met! Luckily we didn't end up being forced to buy some piece of wood-wormed carving tat with our names written on it. However, Tom did get approached by a market trader trying to sell him a shark's tooth - he was only after a cold drink.
To sum up Fiji, we spent our time snorkelling amongst the coral with fish that looked like they had fallen in a hippy's washing machine and come out wearing a tie-dyed t-shirt. Of course the all important tanning sessions. Now, I worked very hard to perfect this colour and would like to see some appreciation on our return (especially from the likes of Jan McCartney who I know is a pro-tanner herself!)
Besides beach life we also gutted fish, showered in the open air under the stars, caught a kava (a mild narcotic drink but a very important Fijian ritual) cold indulging in a session with our methodist church run backpacker hosts. We also made time to visit Levuka (on Ovalau) which is the old capital of Fiji. We hung out in the Royal Hotel, which looked like it came straight out of Hercule Poirot novel. It included 30s decor, ghosts and whirring fans (sort of Graham Greene meets the Shining).
Other actvities included a secret retreat in the Fijian rainforest, swimming and diving in a natural pool amongst the trees and hanging out with the son of a Fijian chief! The words Bula Vinaka will be etched in my mind forever!
As if that wasn't enough beach life for us we then flew to Rarotonga (Cook Islands) spent some more time on the beach, made some more great friends and got lost on a walk. It was all going so well. Tom and I and our walking companions Donna, Jason and Mary were all pretty pleased when we reached the highest point on Rarotonga. We snatched pix of the stunning views and were just about to head down when we bumped into the guru. I describe him thus but really he was just a tour guide with blonde dreadlocks who shouted to his puffed out group when they reached the top of the hill they were at the "temple". You get the picture! Anyway, he told us that we were taking the wrong route back down and to go the other way. He was a tour-guide, so naturally we took his advice. Well, our hike went from a walk in the park to Indiana Jones-style fight for survival. At one point I thought cannabalism could well be in order. No, but seriously our way down was a vertical slope in which vines and rocks were our only aid from tumbling down. We then had to wade through a stream all the way out of the forest, fighting our way through vines and trees all the while. But we made it out and were still friends by the end of it!
And now I turn, before I bore you senseless, to our last two weeks in the USA. We spent last week hanging out with my aunt and cousins in sunny Santa Barbara, California. It involved a hike up Rattle Snake Canyon (heard some rattling but no sightings), eating burgers, coming face-to-face with blue whales and humpback whales and a pod of 3,000 dolphins around Santa Barbara bay on one hell of an incredible trip, lots of laughter, eating more burgers and cruising passed the abodes of the Beach Boys in my cousin's 57 Chevvy known as a "Hot Rod".
We took a scenic trip up the Big Sur and arrived in San Francisco just in time to catch an open air showing of Rebel Without a Cause. Oh, I should also mention I managed to book us into San Francisco's hood. Here, even the trainers on your feet aren't safe! The scene is one of such depravity, good ol' Dickens would have a literary fit!
In 'Frisco we did time at Alcatraz but they let us back out again and walked the Golden Gate Bridge (which I must say was more rusty brown). I confess I have also become a small-time shopping addict.
But the most surreal moment has to be yesterday's trip to Yosemite. We nearly didn't make it all, when after a short stop our soya-bean fuelled tour van refused to restart. But those environmentalists are not just pretty faces and soon got our group back on the road. However, next time I suggest they use chilli or baked-beans to get on the move!
On arrival of Yosemite, at the sight of these granite monsters my mind when to mush. Yes, El Cap and Half Dome are the big daddies but the rock everywhere in this place is mind blowing. One day in the valley? Nah, you definately need longer and I am sure I will be back, but maybe not to climb the above! It was the perfect place to end our stay.
Over and out
Caroline and Tom xxxx

Thursday, August 9, 2007

Tom and I at the Sky Tower yesterday!


Saying farewell to a great place; Tom, me, the lovely Erin and Kai (sniffing Tom's balls of course!)


Tom rounding up the cows at Balmoral, Inch Clutha


Chopping wood on Waiheke!


Sand boarding; obviously a pro!


Stewart Island tramp; shortly after I flashed the guy behind me!


The end of an adventue and the beginning of another

Good morning
Excuse me while I wipe the sleep from my eyes as it's only 7am, yes that's right 7am and here I am typing away to give you the last installment of our New Zealand adventure.
Now, I know there have been criticisms in the past about my blog entries being far and few between but I really believe that this is dedication to the world of blogging, don't you?!
We fly to Fiji today, in a couple of hours in fact and we are staying with a lady called Mumma at the Tropic of Capricorn resort in Nadi before heading out for some island hopping (don't worry Mumma Chick she'll never be able to fill your shoes!)
The last month in the north island has been absolutely fantastic I have to say and I think a lot of that has to do (I am afraid) to say with ditching the Percy and renting the "Juicy Crib".
Last time I wrote we had just arrived in Raglan (surfer paradise), we only went there to check out the waves and in the end stayed four nights in a great place called Solscape ovelooking Manu Bay. The cabins were made out of old railway carriages and the kitchen -a railway station. We had a great time, there hung out with some "dudes", enjoyed the nice warm winter and I managed to improve my climbing skills on the beach rocks (don't worry mum they were more like stones this time). Tom even managed to get us a free nights accommodation at Solscape by climbing some more difficult rocks and then drawing a map for the owners to use -yeah Tomo (I knew your obsession would pay off in the end).
Raglan is also a great place for a smoothie by the way!
Anyway we took to the road again, stopped off at Russell drunk another smoothie made out of algae (it was nice honest), stopped off at a beautiful place heading north called Whatiuwhatiu and managed to get stuck in the company of a racist Aussie and a mental patient from Auckland that loved puple shell-suits and was able to flip out his dentures and did-it made for an interesting night's entertainment.
We knew the following morning it was time to leave Whatiuwhatiu (prounced fatufatu) and head further north, so we did!
Ninety Mile Beach, Ahipara is where we ended, well I am not sure if it is exactly ninety miles but its long, very long!
Well its was from here I managed to eat dirt or should I say sand! Tom and I spent the day sand boarding and as you can see I was rather good at it. As if we weren't north enough. we decided to drive the extra two hours to the top of Cape Rienga to look across the Pacfic Ocean and the Tasman Sea (that's where they join you see) and more impressively the 800-year-old Pohutukau tree. This tree symbolises the entrance into the Maori underworld and where all spirits return (once the person has passed on of course). It was a very calming place, the seas seemed to flow in slow motion.
Then it was time to see some wood! These boys were no saplings. The Kauri forest family has names such as Father of the Forest, so without going into too much detail you can gather they are pretty large fellas!
We stopped off at Haruru Falls (where Percy first broke down) and dropped in on the Waitangi Treaty Ground-this is where Maori tibes and the English signed an agreement to British sovereignty. After spending a night free camping, Tom managed to convince this poor campsite owner to open up his closed camping ground for us at Goat Island Marine Reserve. The man was a hippy and he just couldn't say no and we ended up waking up to some of thge most stunning views of the nortth island at our exclusive retreat surrounded by calfs and puppies. He even let us stomp across his land to get an even better view of our surroundings.
Back in Auckland we handed back Juicy, ate Hoki fush and chups and went to see a full blown Haka by the Ngati Whatua o Orakei tribe and I must say it made me knees tremble.
The last 10 days we have spent working for a midwife on Waiheke Island in an eco-village and we had much fun. We were their to help her finish some building work on her mud and wood built house and got to see and smell first hand how a compost toilet works. I got the opportunity to learn about alternative energy and we met some incredibly interesting people some of whom were founders of Greenpeace. It was simply an incredible learning experience.
And that my dears is the end of our NZ travels. There has been trials, tears but above all terrific, terrific times! Tom has been a great travelling companion allong with the mice and the alpaca!
So all there is left to say is over and out and Bula Fiji!

Monday, July 9, 2007

Dunedin, Stewart Island and a few adventures in between

Hi one and all.
Okay, so I know it has taken me two months to compose this entry but you know perfection takes time!
In case anyone was worried I am fine, I haven't fallen off the end of the earth. We are back on the north island, in a groovy little place called Raglan - it's where they filmed the cult surf film Endless Summer.
So anyway here's a run down of the last two months. Percy was still giving us troubles in Dunedin, so instead of sitting in the city and sulking we buggered off to an even more remote island called Stewart Island. We could have done the famous and well marked track that takes three days and two nights but of course that would make life too easy and so we opted for a few extra days in the wilds and a not so accessible track. When I say not so accessible, what I mean to say is this: wading through mud waist high, torrential winds and rain and being caught with me pants down (literally) by a fellow hiker. Nonetheless it was all good fun, we saw a kiwi (yes!) and made good friends with the hiker I flashed!
After a bit of a scrub up it was time for some farm fun on the island of Inchclutha, near Balclutha. I got the chance to learn about herbs and composting, play in the vegetable garden and discover that poison hemlock will make you hallucinate. Tom flexed his muscles chopping wood, plucking and removing the innards of a chicken and generally doing boy things! The wonderful time we had was all thanks to the lovely Erin, whose love of life, kind-heart and delicious cooking made it hard for us to to leave (cheers Erin). But leave we did, leaving Percy behind! That's right after three months of the arse bleeding us dry of our well earned holiday cash he decided not to pass his WOF (the equivalent of our MOT). It was going to cost us a tidy sum to try and get him through so we called it a day.
Anyway after a brief stop over at Christchurch (great city) we picked up out rental car known as the Juicy Crib (that's what the rental company call it not us) and headed for some action on the slopes of the cold, soft stuff at Mount Hutt, Methven. But when we arrived the slopes were closed and there was just rain-snow joke! (ha) Anyway after holding out for a day and a half we finally got some action, I with the cool cats snowboarding and Tom with the slightly older crowd and little more stooped in their stance skiers!
Rivalry aside we spent three glorious days throwing ourselves down the slopes and getting black and blue!
Obviously, after that fun we needed a rest so we headed to Kaikoura. What a wonderful place. Here the mountains meet the sea and definitely my all time favourite south island destination. Even the sun shone, I should also mention that we saw seven sperm whales and 300 (yep 300) Dusky Dolphins. The word awesome springs to mind.
Since then we have cruised up and over to the north island, been moved on from our camping spot by an affable security guy and taken in some beautiful beaches. From now on it's north all the way back home. Of course there is the little matter of stopping off at Fiji, Raratonga and the US first!
Take care one and all. See you soon (ish)
Caroline xxx

Saturday, May 19, 2007

Upset me Tom and I said I'd make you walk. Tom's visit to the steepest street in the world, Baldwin Street, Dunedin




Look an Albatross in flight.


NZ Hooker's Sea Lions cavorting on Surat Bay


Is that a big pebble? No it's a Hooker's sea lion Tom and he will bite!

Hello

If you want to read this blog entry then, you better pour yourself a whisky, don the kilt and blow the bag pipes because this entry comes from Dunedin. That's Gaelic for Edinburgh, don't you know !
Since leaving Te Anau we have stayed at blustery Bluff (famed for it's oysters) where we met a woman who had obviously been on the road for too long and jabbered extensively about how she was working her way around the male population of Bluff-great night's entertainment. Anyway after a night of her tales and a precautionary visit to the mechanic it was time to get off to the Catlins. Here was where our walk on the wild side began. Despite downpours of rain and high winds we managed to keep Percy on the road long enough to get to a campsite near Jackson Bay. We arrived late and were told they didn't take any cash cards apart from NZ cards. We had to scrape and shake every last piece of loose change together in order to stay the one night.
It was worth every spare dollar. In the morning we woke to the sound of a thousand bird songs and dawn breaking over the beach. We then headed off to Surat Bay, where we encountered not one, not two but six NZ Hooker's Sea Lions. As we walked along the beach we thought it could not get any better than seeing them snoozing on the sand but to our surprise as we rounded the corner we came 30 ft to two sea lions cavorting on the beach. The female sea lion came from the sea and basically told the male sea lion she wanted some attention and got it!
I certainly felt very privileged to be able to get so close and they didn't seem to care that we were there at all.
It was then back on the road to the Otago Peninsula. It's a great place which reminds me of Exeter. And it was here for more sectacular wildlife spotting.
For a start it's the only place on the mainland that you can see Royal Albatross. We saw four chicks (they resemble big fat bunny rabbits with beaks) but rarer still we saw their parents. The fact the chicks are only fed once every two days reflects how lucky we were. Tom has wanted to see an Albatross since he was six so he was stoked!
But for me the highlight of the Otago Peninsula were the Yellow Eyed Penguins on Sandfly Bay. These little beauties are also endangered and very shy. But not that shy it would seem -we saw four waddle from the sea onto the beach. They took my breath away, firstly because it was incredible to see them and secondly because they made me laugh so much. Of course seeing such amazing creatures comes at a cost. On this occasion it involved me getting trashed by a giant wave (thanks for your help Tom) and Tom nearly stepping on a bull Hooker's Sea Lion asleep in the dunes (they recommend five meters as a safe distance to escape their bite if they fancy a chunk of you).
Anyway here's a few pics, hope you like them.
Stay safe and well.
xxx

Wednesday, May 9, 2007

Me and Canadian Wwoofing Tom near the summit of Mount Earnslaw (check out my incredibly massive illumious head)

The iconic Mitre Peak, Milford Sound

Tom proudly uses the spoon he made after forgetting to pack the spork!

Down on the farm with a psychotic family, up a mountain oh and a few "Great" walks

Greetings from Te Anau.
Sorry it's been a while but as I haven't sent anyone my blog address yet I guess it doesn't matter.
Well this is our second stop off at this great place where they have more to talk about than just shooting deer and ducks.
Yesterday Tom and I returned from walking the Kepler Track. A exhilarating and not very hard two day tramp which took us to the top of the world and a ridge that gave us stunning views of snow capped mountains and the wilderness of Fiordland. Don't worry Mum there was no roped up climbing involved! Tom forgot the spork (fork/spork) and so with a few sticks, the lid of a tuna can and a little bit of ingenuity-woo hoo, look what he came up with!
We also walked the Hump Ridge Track a week earlier. Here we followed a evergreen beech track, to a 700 meter peak and then a coastal walk where we spotted the elusive Hector dolphin or was it just a sun streaked wave?! We also managed to catch our first mouse in our trap while on the walk. Following the troubles of Arthur's Pass we bought the handy contraption. It comes out every now and again when we think the little buggers might find a tasty snack in our van while we are absent. Anyway we laced it with peanut butter and one little rodent rascal found it his downfall. We arrived back to the cartoon style carnage that was dead mouse. Yesss! Revenge is sweet.
For those who we haven't mailed about the drama of our first experience of Willing Workers on Organic Farms, here goes. Basically there are a lot of lovely/kind people in New Zealand. The family we stayed with unfortunately were not part of those people. Anyone who wants you to put your foot on a piece of wood, without protective boots while they cut it with the biggest chainsaw around and then gets the arse when you refuse and has a storming row can only be described as a plank of wood themselves. So being rid of them is no great loss!
Anyway on a lighter note we have also been to the awesome Milford Sound, which if any of you get the chance you must do. I can't wax lyrical about it , so I'll leave you with a pic instead!
Oh and lastly I did my first glacier climb - up Mount Earnslaw. It was an experience I will never forget. I managed to get up 2,500 meters but the summit was 2,800 meters.
I'm pretty proud considering it was my first time across ice and my crampons did not fit my boots and I had to walk half the glacier in in just my boots and then get dragged the other half along by a rope safely secured by Tom. The result was bruises galore and a lot of cross words exchanged. But once at my top of Mount Earnslaw (Tom and Canadian Tom went to the very summit) I got to see Mount Aspiring and an array of other snow smothered mountains in the far off distant and yodel to my hearts content. Canadian Tom (who we met while wwoofing) dubbed Earnslaw Mount Earnslaughter and he was right! Our epic ended at 4am on Saturday morning after a 22 hour day across rocks, glaciers, woods and dodging poachers bullets.
Oh and of course the bloody bogs, of which I found many!! One boggy fall came up to my waist and left me wallowing in the stinky stuff.
Still weeks after my boggy descent people will not sit next to me in cinemas or internet cafes-hence why I have written so much.
Anyway, I am heading off now. Maybe another walk tomorrow but certainly no glacier climbing or bungying into bogs!
Take care everyone x

Friday, April 6, 2007

Beautiful Abel Tasman -second day of trekking


Tom, a swing bridge and the Abel Tasman walk


Tom and I take over Bag End, Hobbiton


Tom joins crowds digging his hot water spa at Hot Water Beach nr Cathedral Cove


In Percy at Haruru Falls-just before second breakdown!


Wonderful Wanaka

Wonderful Wanaka -or unfortunately W*nka as I have been texting and emailing many folks back home-sorry. Damn that predictive text!
We rolled into town more than a week ago and have been exploring the area ever since.
First few nights were spent in a campsite I dubbed Lord of the Flies: White Trash Trailer Park.
Obvious reason-there were a lot of flies (especially in the kitchen) and the buildings resembled something for an American flick about a hick family and their campervan!
Anyway we moved on from there when Tom's mate Darren arrived.
Wanaka walks are wicked. Roy's Peak, which is a baby in comparison to Avalanche Peak stands at 1,500 meters and gives absolute awesome views across the lake and the peaks beyond.
Oh and there was the small thing of me agreeing to let Tom take me up a rock face. That's right despite complaints of Tom's addiction to climbing any bit of stone or rock I decided to have a go.
It was great and when I got to the top of this quite easy climb I neraly projectile vomitted
over the heads of these two climbing instructors! How to make friends eh!
Anyway Tom and Darren decided on Wednesday morning that they would rather shed blood, sweat and tears up Mount Aspiring than sample any more of my half toasted crumpets and headed out for a bit of an epic adventure
While they piled on the pain climbing 2,300 meters I enjoyed residing by the lake and strolling up the 230 meter Mount Iron and the 777 meter Rocky Mountain. Oh and being awoken one morning by an alpaca that escaped from the farm next door staring into Percy. The expression on his face suggested he thought Percy may be another alpaca and one he liked the look of!
Tom and Darren arrived back on Friday night to my surprise. Their epic adventure has left Tom with trench foot, bad farts and stinking socks. (It's nice to have you back really Tom).
Their photos of the climb are amazing. Take a look for yourself.
Anyway Monday we are off to become Willing Workers on Organic Farms on a little farm between Queenstown and Arrowhead.
I reckon even the aroma of cow pats will smell better than Tom's feet!!

Saturday, March 24, 2007

Sunny Greymouth

Hey get me, I along with Tom have just climbed Avalanche Peak off Arthur's Pass and it was only 1,800 metres high. I am feeling pretty damn tough. As some guys pointed out when I got to the bottom "it looks like you have jelly legs" and they were right, so right!
We are now in Greymouth. Our unexpected stop comes after trying to flee an invasion of mice inside the van. That's right while enjoying the beauty of Arthur's Pass they managed to make the van their home. The first one was spotted on the dash board brazenly ripping up paper. We then spent half the night with just our head torches chasing the blighters around to no avail. In the end Tom said "that's it we're off" and we raced to another campsite.
After walking the peak of avalanche where I superman style nearly hurtled off a cliff we decided to head off with our mice in a bid to shake them from the van.
Half way up the road on none other than a bend came the smell of burning rubber and Percy grinding to a halt.
Could Percy need more oil, some brake fluid or even some diesel. Nope he needed a new clutch! He is so temperamental! So, that is why we are here in Greymouth, enjoying the comforts of a campsite that doesn't have a biological toilet full of flies and making the most of the glorious sunshine.
Oh and the rodent rascals seem to have absconded. We even tried to tempt them with a peanut butter/mouse trap.
Although I don't blame them peanut butter is for sick, sick people-eh Tom!..

Sunday, March 18, 2007

ExpeditionaGoGo

Hello and welcome to Expedition a GoGo!
We have been spluttering our way around NZ in Percy (as in Perseverance) for the last three weeks and what adventures we have had already. From the man at Heathrow airport assuming I was a deportee to trekking the Abel Tasman coastline in two days (spending a night next door to the world's most ridiculous snoring man) and seeing dolphins from a beach of white sand.
I have burnt my arse at Hot Water beach nr Hahei and have become a tasty snack for sand flies and mosquitoes. We have explored the Corommandel Forest where I managed to fall in the river and caused calamity in various other occasions.
But nothing changes eh.
So Expeditiona Go Go! is finally underway and here's to lots more adventures.